Dive Peninsula Papagayo

FOUR SEASONS PENINSULA PAPAGAYO IS INCLUDED IN OUR BOOK, DIVE IN STYLE

The 2,400-acre Papagayo Peninsula is part of a giant, government-backed development project on Costa Rica’s Pacific coast. One day it will be peppered with resorts, but for the moment the Four Seasons has this shore all to itself, occupying its finest location. Years ago this was virgin forest; nowadays howler monkeys steal balls from the Arnold Palmer golf course and iguanas dice with the hotel’s immaculate SUVs.

Apparently designed to look like the lip of a terracotta pot, with rooms inspired by the shape of an armadillo, some may quibble with the resort’s architectural aesthetic. Nonetheless it is certainly different and successfully blends in with its surroundings.

The 123 rooms are arranged in three large wings, while the more upscale lodgings and suites are scattered in clusters on the hillside. If staying in the standard rooms, it’s worth staying in one of the upper floors, as the views are spectacular.

There are three restaurants overseen by the incredibly attentive staff; nothing is too much trouble. Breakfast is served in the brasserie, lunch either there or by the pool at Congos, and dinner either of these, with the added option of elegant Italian restaurant Mare.

There is plenty to do with special programmes for kids. For instance, expeditions to different rainforests give you a chance to see howler monkeys and scarlet macawa, while the resort offers a non-stop flow of activities from Pilates to surfing and white-water rafting. And then of course there is the diving…

If you’re bent on seeing coral, then the diving off Papagayo is not for you; the same goes for the Galapagos and much of this eastern part of the Pacific. If, on the other hand, you’re after some amazing marine life, you won’t be disappointed – Papagayo is a bit like a junior Galapagos. This is the finest diving on Central America’s Pacific coast, with the exception of Cocos Island, a few hundred miles offshore and only reachable by live-aboard.

Diving at the Four Seasons Peninsula Papagayo is simplicity itself. Run by an American family, Diving Safaris is a 15-minute boat ride across the bay, not that you will ever have to visit. At 9 a.m. you leave for a two-tank dive from Playa Blanca, the hotel’s own beach, and the team is always on time.